"Rising tides raise all boats," mused Managing Partner Reilly, about the casual seafood restaurant becoming a popular segment in the restaurant industry. "What we hope to provide our customers is a great atmosphere, high quality at a good price, and outstanding service -- consistently." Sounds reasonable enough.

Although the sign in front of Florida Bay is small, the vivid yellow building should catch anyone's attention. A trail of painted fish stretches the fishing metaphor from the sidewalk into the bar area where the ambience is comfortable Floridian. A gray painted concrete floor, large bar, musical performance stage, and corrugated aluminum spark interest. Past the bar, and a step up, is the carpeted Key Largo-styled dining room. Overhead is a school of fiberglass dolphin (mahi mahi) in suspended flight from an interloping marlin. Black and white photographs of sport fishermen dot the walls. A few depict McIntosh and Reilly, who have been fishing together since they were boys growing up in Fort Lauderdale. Bare tabletops give the impression of dark mahogany while rolls of paper towels, nonweighty silverware and heavy-duty plastic tableware complete the illusion of casual.

Beer and mixed drinks are the beverages of choice. Only a few wines are offered either by the glass or bottle. Overseeing the menu is Kitchen Manager Toby Vinson, a graduate of University of South Carolina's Hotel and Restaurant Management program in Columbia. The desserts are made by the pastry chef at McIntosh's.

From beginning to end, the restaurant is characteristically minimalist and unfussy. Shellfish highlights the appetizer list with a few cross-cultural borrowings, such as the Jamaican Jerk Shrimp Quesadilla. Servers are efficient and knowledgeable, quick to answer questions about shellfish lineage.

The kicky Bahamian conch chowder is spotted with nuggets of succulent conch while the raw oysters were pristine. The Caesar salad, a candidate for a Queer Eye "make better," capsized from the amount of salad dressing.

The seafood entrees here are not like the stars of Charlie Trotter's lush, three-line titled dishes. At Florida Bay things are simple. Their "Fresh Fish Everyday" offers a choice of four fish: Mahi Mahi, Atlantic Salmon, Ahi Tuna, or Gulf Grouper. Each is grilled and plated with sides in the old school 10-2-4 presentation. The crisp-seared, tender and rare Ahi was perfect and familiar, while the Po' Boy sandwich revealed golden fried oysters glossed with a first-rate aioli.

As with any decent seafood place, there are the side dishes. The best of these were the densely flavored black beans. The coleslaw, on the other hand, while fresh tasting, lacked oomph and the garlic mashed potatoes floundered. The corn on the cob apparently had overstayed its welcome in the steaming pan. On the plus side, you'll have room for dessert, which includes their sensational Key Lime Pie.

With dinner entrees ranging from $10 to $16, Florida Bay Seafood seems straight on course to reel in folks looking for good fish at these prices.